Update: Well there has been a mad amount happening in the last two weeks. A mind full of material things, thoughts of business, family and new relationships...a few nice peaks mixed in to bring the balance.
The Atlantic swells have been relentless, like nothing many surfers of my generation will have seen. I managed to sneak a few exceptional waves through gaps in strong wind to keep the fire burning. I left Ireland a couple of weeks ago however and i've done well over a thousand miles on the road since, visiting family and friends o'er the festive period. General lack of physical exercise, unhealthy food and late nights are taking their tole, but their is always a positive to be taken.
'Gathering of the badgers' it was called, a big family gathering that summoned me to Scotland's capital City. I snagged a few fun waves down the east coast during the week, a real nice crew of surfers there and nice to get some right hand barrels. They really are the hardiest surfers i've ever met, such inconsistent and freezing conditions yet every time a pulse of swell hits the coast...nothing else matters. Shared a few waves with my brother over there, who has recently taken to surfing, what a natural in the ocean.
Even found myself in London town, well as much as you can 'find yourself' after an 8hr drive. I enjoy London, just don't bring a car. Although on Christmas eve a lovely guy from Pakistan did a great turn by giving me a free parking pass for the day in otherwise frustrating circumstances. The cast of Les Mis sung 'we wish you a merry christmas' too, very Beautiful.
Spent Christmas with the wee sister, grandparents, uncles and a cousin or two on the south coast of England. Food, 'A wonderful life', gifts, wine, bad jokes and Christmas paper hats. Good times.
After many more hours on the road I found myself in Lancashire, visiting more family. It's amazing the similarities you see as you get a little older and..hem hem...wiser. A few good ales, a good few more bacon and egg butties, gallons of tea drunk, nice words, hugs and fond farewells and i was on my way northward again.
A brief stop in Edinburgh and went for a ramble with my brother, his guitar in tow. Before I know it there was an incredible trad music session in a great wee bar. A reasonably early night however then off again to Aberdeen, where i find myself now.
This is where i hit the general lethargy i don't often find myself with, ocean looking pretty flat, too many hours on the road and generally lacking spontaneity and je ne sais quoi. Late to bed, a chat with the ocean followed by a startling text at quarter to light in the morning. Instantly wide awake, full of excitement to see a friends message who is keen to check the beach. The morning is dark, frozen solid but with a cup of tea in hand i set off for the beach. The high clouds we're a dazzling pink as the sun started to rise and we were stoked to see some small but perfect ground swell lines tickling the coast. We got suited up, took out the foamies and had an absolute blast in the morning sun.
For the new year i've decided to take a chill, too many places to go, faces to see in different locations. The rambling ceases, for the in-breath...i'll set my feet steady for the next one, as it'll be significantly longer.
